Wednesday, January 27, 2010

making merit on the king's birthday

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Almost 2 months ago, on December 4, we celebrated the birthday (82nd?) of Thailand's king, the country's most beloved public figure. Classes for most of the day were canceled and parents came to watch the festivities. Monks from a nearby temple arrived in the morning for a sort of blessing ceremony in the school's open air auditorium.


Monks sit on the stage facing the students who are supposed to be listening quietly.
In actuality most of them are chatting, talking on their cell phones, biting each other, etc.

After the blessing ceremony (most of which I still don't understand), I was ushered over to stand around the outside of the school courtyard lined with long rows of tables laden with non-perishable foods (dry rice, cup-o-noodles, UHT milk boxes, hard candies, wafer cookies). On the inside of the square the monks walked single file along the perimeter as the kids and teachers reached out to drop the foods into their silver bowls.

[This tradition of ทำบุญ tumboon, or merit-making, is something I see daily here, and most obviously on holidays. Families, schools, businesses, carefully prepare trays with bottles of water or soda, a vase of flowers, bowls of rice and plates of sliced fruit or candies or any number of foods. The trays and other offerings (usually buckets of food, money and other necessities) are either presented to monks who drive around in pickups collecting alms or set in front of a spirit house. The thai teachers at school, from what I could gather, said that these offering are not charity. Instead they're an opportunity for Buddhist laypeople to show humbleness and respect to Buddhist monks and to "make merit." Merit is a kind of energy or force which helps ensure goodness and blessings in all aspects of one's life, I think.]


merit-making ceremony



one of the monks uses a bundle of sticks to sprinkle water
on the gathered teachers and students


kids in pink offer chocolate milk and ramen noodles to the monks

Colors carry a certain significance here, especially colored shirts. Each day of the week is assigned a hue [Sunday = Red / Monday = Yellow / Tuesday = Pink / Wednesday = Green / Thursday = Orange / Friday = Blue / Saturday = Purple] so on any given day here you'll see a disproportionate number of people walking around town in that day's color. The exceptions lately, however, are Sunday and Monday because of the deep political division between the Yellow Shirts and the Red Shirts. In 2007 the 80 year old king was hospitalized and thousands of Thais gathered in Bangkok to pray for his recovery. Apparently, when he was released and stepped out of the hospital he was wearing a pink shirt and blazer (some of the teachers here believe that a Thai astrologer had predicted that wearing pink would help the king heal and enjoy a long life). thus... pink is now the king's color here. And for the birthday celebration we all donned our pink apparel for school as a sign of respect.


Teacher Ryan and Folk show off their pink shirts

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Monday, January 18, 2010

a phi phi christmas

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My christmas dinner this year consisted of raisinettes and soymilk from 7/11 consumed on a bumpy night bus with thai karaoke music videos blaring overhead. All the buses were running late that night so we didn't get going until 9:30 or so, but arrived at the Krabi bus terminal in plenty of time to catch a morning ferry to koh phi phi.

The ferry navigated through a bay teeming with speedboats, ferries, longtails as we pulled up to the island's Ton Sai pier. The scene at the dock was one of mayhem, confusion, headaches.. boat drivers, vendors, hotel reps demanding attention from the bedraggled backpackers stumping off the ferry. each insisting they were offering the cheapest/best/most fun/last available options on the island.. we ended up escaping the madness and taking a boat to Long Beach. Found a great place to stay (Phi Phi Hill) overlooking the bay for around $10/night, tossed backpacks on beds, donned swimsuits and dove into the andaman sea. and thus began christmas vacation.


Ko Phi Phi Leh and Ton Sai bay from Phi Phi Hill's restaurant


and again


walking to ton sai village at low tide

The beach where we stayed had just a smattering of few resorts and restaurants, one dive shop, one small convenience store/gift shop.. so we walked to the main town most days to pick up water and cheap food (we lived mainly on fruit, peanuts, bread and homemade peanut butter I brought from home).


aside from hikes to town, most days were spent snorkeling, swimming, reading on the beach
(and diving... underwater post to follow)

There was also a cool hike from the town, up to a viewpoint and down to the far side of the island. climbing through steep jungley terrain in the tropical heat, felt a bit like mogley


the viewpoint


the isthmus where the town of Ton Sai is built - apparently hard hit by the 2004 tsunami


After a few nights on Long Beach we tossed our luggage in a longtail and found a place to stay on Rantee, a beach accessible only by boat or a 40 minute scramble along a narrow jungle path.


Rantee Huts - where we stayed on Rantee

Rantee Hut, a beachside operation with several bungalows and a small a restaurant/bar, is run by a group of friendly, generous thai guys. A relaxing, place to spend the final few days of the vacation..


the quiet beach at rantee


high tide from the bungalow steps at Rantee Hut


longboat before a rainstorm at rantee


morning pineapple smoothie and connect 4 at the beachside bar



hot, salty, sandy with a bellyful of thai food.
this is contentment.
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Saturday, January 16, 2010

ancient city

At the start of the semester our supervisor invited the foreign teachers to visit one of Samut Prakan's more impressive claims to fame, the Ancient City. It's essentially a miniature Thailand complete with scaled down replicas of the country's most important temples and landmarks. Starting the far south we took a tour all the way up to BKK, then up the western border to the northern provinces and back through central, then eastern Thailand.. in a span of less than 3 hours. It's beautifully done, well maintained, worth the trip.

I know woefully little about the structures in these pictures are, so I'm refraining from adding captions: